An apocalyptic paddle and a Mars bar

• Distance: 23.5 km

After three lovely, but soggy days on the “Summer Isles” we followed the weather east to squeeze in one last paddle. I’m so glad we did because the coastline north of Stonehaven is absolutely spectacular.

We set up a shuttle from Stonehaven to Cove, taking advantage of a gentle north-going tidal push and light winds. After three days of rain, blue skies and sunshine felt like a luxury.

Crossing the bay from Stonehaven, the coastline suddenly came alive. Endless rock-hopping, sea caves around every corner, narrow channels and playful features. The swell was just right and Sarah and I were really enjoying messing around in our plastic boats. We stopped for lunch at a tiny bay where someone had built a little bothy and toilet. It felt very remote. I got bitten by a horsefly.

The afternoon took a surreal turn. We noticed the smell of smoke, then the light began to change. The sky darkened, the sun turned a deep orange-red. Soon we were paddling through thick smoke. The horizon disappeared, everything became eerily quiet, and eventually the smoke was thick enough to make my eyes sting and stream with tears. Later we discovered it was smoke from the Cairngorm wildfires, carried around 60 miles east by the wind. One of the strangest moments was paddling into the caves. Just a few metres inside, the air suddenly felt cool and fresh compared with the smoke outside.

We eventually reached Cove, where the get-out is down a steep single-track lane to the tiny harbour. With people waiting to use the slip and needing to drive Mark back to Stonehaven for his van, we made some rather rushed goodbyes. We agreed we’ll have to return, there’s so much coastline to explore.

I’d planned to celebrate with a swim and an ice cream back in Stonehaven, but the smoke was still hanging heavily over the town. Instead, I grabbed chips and a deep-fried Mars bar from the famous local chippy before heading home.

With Paul, Sarah, Kev and Mark.